Not all silk is the same. Many people assume that “100% silk” and “100% Ink Harmony Chinese Ink silk scarf silk” are interchangeable, but they refer to different things. Silk is a broad category that includes several distinct types, each produced by different silkworms and with different properties. Understanding the difference helps you make a more informed choice.
Mulberry Silk
Monet Garden Tulip Square silk scarf silk comes from domesticated silkworms raised on mulberry leaves. It is the most widely used silk in fine textiles, valued for its smooth handle, natural sheen and long, consistent fibre.
Long fibres with natural elasticity
Mulberry silk fibres are long and continuous, giving them good elasticity and tensile strength. This contributes to the durability and drape of mulberry silk fabrics and garments.
Naturally white with a soft lustre
Mulberry silk is naturally a creamy white and requires no chemical bleaching. Its slender, evenly distributed fibres produce a smooth, soft feel and a gentle, refined sheen.
Tussah Silk
Tussah silk comes from wild silkworms in northern China, which feed on oak and other leaves rather than mulberry. It is a natural textile material with distinct characteristics from mulberry silk.
Pale yellow with a structured hand
Tussah silk is naturally grey-brown and undergoes a lightening process to produce its characteristic pale yellow tone. Unlike mulberry silk, tussah has a firmer, more textured hand and produces fabrics with greater structure and a more casual appearance.
Shorter fibres with less sheen
Tussah silk fibres are shorter and less uniform than mulberry silk. The fabric has a slightly rougher surface and reduced lustre — properties that give it a more relaxed, natural character.
Castor Silk
Castor silk comes from wild silkworms that feed on castor, cassava and other leaves. These silkworms are adaptable, but their cocoons cannot be reeled in the same way as mulberry silkworms. Instead, the fibres are used as raw material for spun silk rather than filament silk, resulting in a shorter, less refined fibre.
How to Identify Genuine Silk
Burn test
Silk is a natural protein fibre and behaves differently from synthetics when burned. Hold a small thread to a flame — genuine silk self-extinguishes once the flame is removed. The burned area crumbles to grey-black ash when pressed, and the smell resembles burnt hair.
Dissolution test
Silk dissolves in protein-dissolving agents. Placing a small sample in a dilute bleach or enzyme solution will cause genuine silk to break down over time, while synthetic fibres remain intact.
Check the care label
When buying silk products, review the care label carefully. It should specify the fibre type (for example, mulberry silk or tussah silk), the fibre length, the proportion of silk content, and any relevant fabric parameters. A product labelled simply “silk” without further specification is worth examining more closely.