Now let’s look at the categories of this mystery fabrics. They are normally separated into eight categories.
01. Silk Spun Xiangyun Fabric
The base fabric is made from leftover raw silk, which includes uneven single filaments and silk contaminated by the liquid from silkworm cocoons. It is sent to the silk-spinning factory, where it is first boiled to remove oil and silk glue. Then, using cotton spinning methods, the silk is spun into yarn and woven into base fabric, which is further processed through the Xiangyun dyeing and finishing techniques.
Thickness: 30-50 momme
02. Heavy Satin Xiangyun Fabric
With a texture similar to lambskin, this fabric uses double the amount of silk compared to regular silk fabrics. It is crafted through special techniques. In addition to the characteristics of ordinary silk, it also has benefits such as being shrink-resistant, crisp, and easy to care for. It drapes well and is available in single-sided and double-sided options, making it suitable for autumn and winter qipaos. The small heavy satin is thicker than regular satin Xiangyun fabric and is more affordable than heavy satin, making it suitable for all seasons.
Heavy Satin Thickness: Over 38 momme
Small Heavy Satin Thickness: Over 27/28 momme
03. Pearl Satin Xiangyun Fabric
This fabric features a surface with bubble-like textures, combined with the unique luster of satin, creating a pearl-like three-dimensional effect and shine. It belongs to the satin and silk category and involves an additional processing step compared to plain crepe satin and mulberry satin.
Thickness: Approximately 30 momme for thick, around 25 momme for thin
04. Cracked Shell Pattern Xiangyun Fabric
This fabric is made from continuous long fibers formed from the silk liquid secreted by mature silkworms during cocooning. It is a type of baked skin Xiangyun fabric and has a slightly rigid feel. During production, a layer of mud is applied, and then it is sun-dried, resulting in a naturally uneven and irregular pattern, resembling the cracks on a turtle’s shell.
Thickness: Between 21-28 momme
05. Crown Pleated Xiangyun Fabric
This fabric is pressed into pleats, featuring a surface with three-dimensional floral textures that are delicate and dynamic, making it less prone to wrinkling compared to other Xiangyun fabrics.
Thickness: Between 23-28 momme
06. Flower Luo Xiangyun Fabric
Referred to as the “Hermès of silk,” this fabric has a surface with perforated floral patterns, making it breathable and cool, yet relatively thin. Typically, it is translucent but not revealing. The weaving process for Flower Luo is very complex, generally involving around 8 steps compared to ordinary silk fabrics, while Flower Luo can have up to 30 steps, all meticulously crafted. Before the invention of the steam engine, the production of Flower Luo was entirely handmade, emphasizing the importance of craftsmanship.
Thickness: Between 21-23 momme
07. Plain Crepe Satin Xiangyun Fabric
This is a standard fabric among silk materials, featuring a bright and luxurious satin surface that feels smooth and elastic, with a rich luster and dense organization. Compared to other silks, it is shinier, combining the wrinkle-resistant benefits of double satin with the smooth, soft characteristics of satin.
Thickness: Between 21-24 momme
08. Mulberry Satin Xiangyun Fabric
Similar to plain crepe satin, this fabric features jacquard patterns that are diverse in type and design, with a complex manufacturing process. It is soft and smooth, typically used for home textiles and high-end fashion fabrics.
Thickness: Approximately 24 momme
