The Art of Silk
For thousands of years, people have cultivated mulberry trees and raised silkworms to produce silk, providing warmth and comfort in daily life while also serving as a vibrant backdrop for cultural traditions. Silk has become one of the most dazzling elements of Chinese culture.
But how much do you really know about silk? Today, let’s explore the history of silk, its classification, and common fabrics.
History of Silk Development
- Shang Dynasty: By this time, silk production had taken shape, featuring advanced craftsmanship and complex weaving techniques.
- Western Zhou and Spring and Autumn Periods: Almost all regions were producing silk, leading to a rich variety of patterns, primarily categorized into three types: juan (fine silk), qi (decorative silk), and jin (brocade).
- Tang Dynasty: This was the peak of silk production, with unprecedented levels in quantity, quality, and variety.
- Song and Yuan Dynasties: Advances in sericulture technology led to a brief resurgence of silk’s prominence.
- Ming and Qing Dynasties: The rise of capitalism changed silk production and trade, with an increasing trend toward commercialization and rapid growth in overseas silk trade.
After the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the silk industry entered a new historical period.
Classification of Silk
Ancient silk fabrics were named based on their weave structure, patterns, and colors. Many modern silk types retain these traditional names, such as zhou, ling, ti, and juan, while also adopting foreign terms like georgette and taffeta. Currently, silk fabrics can be classified into 14 main categories based on their structure, materials, processing techniques, texture, appearance, and primary uses:
Yarn: Fabrics with evenly distributed holes (or “yarn eyes”) created by the warp threads.
Luo: Fabrics with a delicate style, featuring small holes and a tight, sturdy texture, suitable for summer wear.
Ling: Lightweight fabrics with a clear diagonal pattern, historically used for embroidery and decorative purposes.
Juan: Fine, smooth fabrics with a plain weave.
Jin: Colorful jacquard fabrics made with multiple colored threads.
Duan: Smooth and shiny fabrics using satin weave, widely used in various garments.
Ti: Thick, clear-patterned fabrics made with long silk threads and cotton or other yarns.
Ge: Thick fabrics with horizontal patterns, made from various weaves.
Nai: Thick, plush fabrics made from coarser silk threads.
Rong: Fabrics with a velvety surface, featuring a soft texture.
Chou: The most significant silk category, known for its smooth, delicate surface and versatility.
Xiao: Lightweight, sheer fabrics with small holes.
Zhou: Fabrics with a wrinkled effect, known for their soft sheen and elasticity.
Georgette: Light, transparent fabrics with a slightly crinkled texture.
Common Silk Fabrics
Plain Silk Satin: A standard silk fabric with a smooth, opaque surface and excellent luster.
Double Georgette: A lightweight and breathable fabric with a slightly textured surface on both sides.
Georgette: Ideal for scarves, it is lightweight and comfortable but should be layered for clothing.
Power Stretch: Offers good opacity, suitable for high-end silk garment linings.
Organza: A lightweight, semi-transparent fabric that holds shape well for stylish designs.
Stretch Satin: Features a clear distinction between the front and back, with a lustrous surface.
Silk Chiffon: Made from 100% mulberry silk, it is soft, lightweight, and breathable.
Double Georgette: A blend of plain silk satin and double georgette, balancing shine and texture.
Silk Stretch Double Georgette: A matte fabric with a subtle sheen and soft texture.
Silk-Cotton Blend: A mix of 30% silk and 70% cotton, offering good moisture absorption.
Twill Silk: Features a noticeable diagonal pattern, soft texture, and good elasticity.
Double Silk: Characterized by irregular points and a soft, dense texture.
Xiangyun Fabric: Made from various silk types, it has a hard texture and has the wrinkling pattern.
Taffeta: A crisp silk fabric known for its excellent structure and increasing use in fashion design.
Chinese silk culture is a rich and enduring legacy that has evolved over thousands of years, continuously enriching its cultural depth.
Source: 丝之媒