Xiangyunsha — also known as Gambiered Canton Silk — is one of China’s most distinctive traditional textiles. Craftsmen produce it using an ancient plant-dyeing and mud-finishing method that requires specific raw materials, precise techniques, and a climate found only in the Pearl River Delta region of Guangdong. This guide introduces the three pillars of Xiangyunsha production: the raw materials, the step-by-step processing techniques, and the quality characteristics of the finished fabric.
I. Raw Materials
Three core ingredients define Xiangyunsha. Each one must meet strict quality criteria before the production process can begin.
1. Raw Silk
Craftsmen select pure silk fabric whose density and quality meet relevant national standards. Only high-count, high-density cloth can survive the repeated soaking, drying, boiling, and mud-treatment stages without losing integrity.
2. Tuber Fleeceflower Root
The dye source is the tuber fleeceflower root (Polygonum multiflorum), a perennial vine of the Polygonaceae family with dark brown skin and a deep red interior. Workers crush the roots, soak them in water tanks, and filter the solution to produce successive concentrations — the “first pass water,” “second pass water,” “third pass water,” and “fourth pass water.” Each concentration serves a different stage of the dyeing process.
3. River Mud
Workers collect the mud from rivers within Shunde District. The mud is rich in ferrous ions, giving it a gray-black colour, a fine texture, and no foul odour. It must contain no impurities that would interfere with the finishing process. This river mud is what gives Xiangyunsha its signature black, shiny surface.
II. Processing Techniques
The production of Xiangyunsha follows a strict sequence of 14 stages. Every step demands skill, timing, and physical endurance. Craftsmen complete the entire process by hand.
Process flow: Preparation of raw silk → Preparation of tuber fleeceflower root solution → Immersion in tuber solution → Sun drying of tuber → Sprinkling tuber solution → First sealing of tuber solution → First boiling of silk → Second sealing of tuber solution → Second boiling of silk → Third sealing of tuber solution (“lifting the cargo”) → Mud treatment → Cleaning of river mud → Fourth sealing of tuber solution (“complex black”) → Laying out in the fog
Preparation
Workers cut the raw silk into segments of 15 to 20 metres long. They sew cotton rod sleeves onto both ends of each segment to allow even handling during immersion and drying.
Dyeing with Tuber Solution
Workers immerse the prepared silk in the “first pass water” and turn it continuously until the cloth is thoroughly saturated. The silk then drains naturally before moving to the drying stage.
Sun Drying and Sealing
After draining, workers spread the silk front-side up on grass and dry it under direct sunlight. Only two windows exist each year for this work: April to June and September to November. Only during these months does Guangdong offer sufficient sunshine, low rainfall, and high temperatures.
The grass layer must be 1–2 cm thick and evenly spaced to allow air circulation. Grass too soft cannot support the weight of the silk. Grass too hard will scratch the surface.
Workers spread the cloth, turn it by hand, roll it up, then spread it again — ensuring even drying and full absorption of the tuber solution. More than a dozen workers typically operate on each cloth at the same time. This is the most physically demanding step in the entire process.
Workers then sprinkle “second pass water” onto the dried silk and smooth it with a broom made of sunflower leaves to spread the solution evenly. This process repeats several times to build up the dye.
For the first sealing, workers place the silk into a dedicated sealing tank, immerse it in “third pass water” for over 30 minutes, then sun-dry it again. This too repeats several times.
Boiling
Workers place the silk in a large copper pot and soak it in “third pass water” at 45 °C to 50 °C for 4 to 5 minutes, turning it continuously. After soaking, the silk drains naturally and dries. A second boiling follows using “fourth pass water” after the second sealing cycle.
Third Sealing (“Lifting the Cargo”)
After the second boiling, workers apply “fourth pass water” once more — this time only a single application. Once dry, they roll the silk into a cylindrical shape. The cloth is now ready for mud treatment.
Mud Treatment
Workers carry out the mud treatment in a shaded area. They first stir the river mud into a smooth, even paste. They then spread the silk front-side up on a clean cement surface and apply a uniform thin layer of mud — thick enough that the fabric surface is no longer visible to the naked eye.
After applying the mud, workers gently fold the silk along its central axis, lift it onto sandy ground, and spread it out for 30 to 50 minutes.
Washing and Final Sealing (“Complex Black”)
Workers carry the mud-treated silk to the river and wash it clean. They then dry it on the grass front-side up. After drying, they apply the fourth and final sealing of tuber solution — the “complex black” stage — which deepens and stabilises the colour. The silk then dries on the grass once more.
Laying Out in the Fog
Before and after sunset, workers lay the silk on the grass to absorb moisture from the air and the dew on the grass. This softens the cloth and lasts approximately 40 minutes. It is the final step before the fabric rests and stabilises.
III. Quality Characteristics
Sensory Characteristics
A finished piece of Xiangyunsha carries three immediately recognisable qualities:
- The front side is shiny black. The reverse side is coffee-coloured or retains the original base colour, with visible traces of tuber and mud treatment.
- The fabric looks rustic and beautiful. The texture is soft, smooth, and resilient.
- Breathability is strong. The cloth does not stick to the skin.
Physical and Chemical Indicators
- Silk fibre content: 100%
- Water washing dimensional change rate: −5.0% to +2.0%
All safety and other quality technical requirements comply with relevant national standards.